I started my mainland Europe traveling two weeks ago with an amazing trip to Central Europe. I was only gone a week but the experiences and the adventure alone made it seem like I was gone a month. This was my first trip to both eastern and western Europe and to do them in the same week was really incredible. I skied in the Austrian alps, drank beer in a Munich beer hall and met a holocaust survivor in Krakow. When I returned home too I realized how happy I was to be heading back and how this really was my "home." And what's best, its still a city in Europe!
March 14. 2009
Our great central Europe adventure started with a pop over to Sweden to catch our super cheap flight to Poland out of Malmo. I went on this part of the trip with Amy and we decided we HAD to go to Poland after seeing a WIZZ air flight for only 100 crowns ($15 inc. tax). Well what we didn't think about was that it was $15 out of Malmo (but the train to Malmo is $10, shuttle bus to airport $15...) and that we had booked a discount airline (huge competition in Europe for cheap airfare = more flights packed into one day= more delays = a big mistake to book our flight in the late afternoon). We showed up at the airport 2 hours early to find out our plane was 3 hours delayed from the get-go, then considering we have a 2 hour shuttle from the airport in Poland still ahead of us it was going to be a long afternoon. So we did as best we could in an airport that made Albany look big and wasted all our money on beer, snacks and a new deck of cards.

When we finally got to Poland we were met with a waiting shuttle. Our hassles were over and it was worth it. We decided to couch surf in Krakow and our host couple was waiting for us with wine, friends and still took us out for a night on the town. In the shuttle I asked Amy how many hours of travel she was going on. She didn't have enough fingers for her 12..

I meanwhile was knitting.

Krakow! This is an incredibly beautiful city.. I loved the central Market Square.

There is a great cathedral that dominates the square. Amy is in front of it with our best find, the Polish pretzel.


This little round guy was the first form of the pretzel.. at least Poles claim to have started it. They are sold all over the city in little street stands. (Although this picture was taken from the airport on my way out, we wised up a bit and stocked up on the $0.10 pretzels for our trips home. Nourishment reserve.)
Krakow has some of the most gut-wrentching history but it also a beautiful city with a lot to offer outside its past. The mountains are close by and make a great side trip but unfortunately we didn't have time to visit. Its a university city so there is a lot of great night life and music and many tourists and foreigners. The old Jewish quarter is a reinvented part of town, with some of the most incredible pubs and cafes in these dark and eery old businesses of the main streets and squares. The city is one of the most well preserved Polish cities because it was never destroyed and rebuilt by the communists after WWII, like Warsaw and many others. The history I suppose is hard to avoid.

The food however is very unique. Around the city they have milk bars which are cheap lunch halls left over from Communist times. The soups we tried were incredible! Mine is in the foreground, a clear beet-root soup with dumplings. (Who ever heard of beet-root before coming here, the Danes love it too. This one was so good)

The King's castle is perched on a hill overlooking the river, the Wisla, a major river in Poland. I instead opted to take pictures of all the walls.


Inside Wawel Castle. (Its fun to say too because W's are V's in Polish)

Few more shots around the central square. The yellow building with the arcade is called Sukiennice and its a market place like Pikes place or Quincy markets. The square was so big though it needed something like this to break it up a bit.



There were two churches on the main square, both were skewed but aligned with each other. The white one is called St. Adalbert's Church and it is an 11th century church, one of the oldest stone churches in Poland. The cathedral is called Saint Mary's Basillica and it had some of the most beautiful decorations on the inside. I actually went in as a patron after everything I saw on this trip. I needed a moment of reflection.

Finally we took another look at Kazimierz, the old Jewish district, on our last day after having seen Auschwitz. We went into a book store and had a great converstation with the shop owner, who personally knew all of the surviving jews from Kazimierz during the holocaust. Many of them had written memoirs. One of these women happened to walk into the shop while we were talking to him. He introduced us and immediately she grabbed my and Amy's hands and squeezed them tight. She looked us back and forth and said "Be safe, such beautiful girls." She couldn't stop picking up our hands while she showed us the photographs in her memoir. "And that was my mother and my grandmother.. and this was my brother." The shop owner had been telling us about her before she came in actually. He was writing the title of our book for us on a slip of paper, since he was out of it in the shop.

He wrote slowly since it was hard for him to remember the English title. "Have.. You.. Seen.. My.. Little..." God my heart was dropping, "Sister." Here is her book. She was nine when everything started and she was separated from her family. Her brother rescued her by taking her down into the sewers and hiding her. Her name is Janina Fischler-Martinho a holocaust survivor from Krakow. She's just one story. Its too scarey how real it all is.